Amtrak to California, Part 5: Pinnacles National Park and Pismo Beach

Monterey to Arroyo Grande and Pismo Beach (7 Photos)

 We left Monterey with great reluctance, hoping to return someday, perhaps from the north via San Francisco.  Instead of taking Highway 1 again heading south, we chose the alternate route along Highway 101, essentially a divided, flat highway.  We had plans to picnic and hike at Pinnacles National Park, before heading into San Luis Obispo for the afternoon, and then on to our final motel in Arroyo Grande.  We also had plans to spend the evening at the beach.  All went according to plan, although the temperatures grew hotter and hotter the more we went inland.  We passed the world's largest lettuce growing area, and we recognized most of the brand names as ones we buy year-round back in Canada.  At Pinnacles NP it was 95 degrees F. when we arrived.  It was a very warm hike!

Our hike at Pinnacles National Park led us between the mountains seen ahead.  Once in the canyon we climbed onto high ledges on the lighter coloured left side mountains, returning through a cool, very dark cave on the darker mountains seen on the right.  It was tinder dry here, and hot.  A standby fire engine was parked at the trailhead.

At one point the return trail enters a narrow, twisting cave which also involves some
climbing.  It's not unlike climbing through a birth canal and emerging into the light.
We needed a flashlight, and wish we had bought a second one at the visitor center.
We saw some sleeping bats down there, too.

Two people sit near the entrance to the cave, Pinnacle NP.  It was cool and dark in here, a
welcome respite from the intense light and desert heat beyond.

 After hiking we continued driving south to San Luis Obispo, visited briefly on our northbound journey.  I settled in at SLO Brewery,  while Deb sought out a nearby cafe and then strolled through the lovely downtown.  It was much cooler here, near the ocean.  Later we drove the short distance to our final motel, seen here and below.  I tried an Oatmeal Stout and some IPA at SLO Brewery.

 The impressive lobby of the Best Western Casa Grande Inn, our final resting place, so to speak.  Just across the street was a fun brewery and taproom called Manrock!  I had Follow the Crow IPA!  A very short drive from here was Pismo Beach, where we spent the evening.

 Pismo Beach sunset, California.  It was just as lovely there as the picture!

 The beach and pier of Pismo Beach.  This is a magical area.  We ate dinner at a little place just off the beach, offering craft ale taps and veggie burgers.  The moon was waxing.  It would be full on our second night aboard the eastbound Southwest Chief, and we would see it from the observation car.

To be continued....

Amtrak to California, Part 4: The Whales

"Thar Be Whales!"  Day 3 (13 photos)

Deb had booked us a whale watch cruise with Chris' Whale Watching, from the dock near downtown Monterey.  We certainly got our money's worth, and more!  We left at 10 am and were back around 12:45 pm.  We never went too far from shore, but we saw plenty of action.  At one point, five whales were near the boat.

 A plethora of seals, Monterey dock.  See close up, below.

Snoozing seals, exhausted from their hunt for food.  A pod will follow the whales, and dive with them.  As the whales begin to surface, they come up ahead.  When a large amount of sea lion (seals) activity begins on the surface, the whale is not far behind.

 Our whale watch boat, the good ship "Caroline."  We sat in the stern.  It was very chilly and cloudy when we left at 10 am (photo taken upon our return).  We sat in a sheltered corner,

 quite snug.

On whale watch, on the stern of the Caroline.

 Just after leaving the dock we encountered this group of scary looking critters.  However, they are Rissos Dolphins.  We also saw dolphins later on in the distance cresting the waves.

 Whales tend to be rather large...

 "Thar she blows!"

Twins!

They were very close to our boat.  While in the proximity of the whales, the captain
would shut down the engine and we would just drift.  His sonar showed where the
whales were (frequently just beneath us).  They would dive for about five minutes,
surface, blow, then dive again.  Anchovies were on the menu for them today.

 A rare sighting of four (or five?) humpbacks all at the surface together.  Our boat was never very far from shore.

Spotted returning to harbour--is the Doctor living in Monterey?

We spent the evening on Monterey Beach and Dunes.  It adjoins Pebble Beach, in the background.

To be continued....

Amtrak to California, Part 3: HIghway 1 to Monterey from Morro Bay

California, Day Two (10 Photos)

Monterey was the goal for tonight, but we had a big day ahead of us before getting there.  Highway 1 turned out to be a bit different than we were expecting.  We were prepared for a coastal drive, but this was a very mountainous one.  The road soars high above the sea, then comes down to meet it, again and again, winding through mountains, a tunnel and across many fine bridges.  The ocean is in full view for 90% of the drive.  At Big Sur (Pfieffer State Park) the road leaves the coast for several miles, crossing through a redwood forest.  We stopped at a lodge here for lunch and a major hike before continuing on to Monterey for dinner.  We had two nights booked at a motel there, and some whales to see tomorrow morning.

 Highway 1 turned out to be a lot more mountainous and curvy than expected.  The scenery was always nothing less than spectacular, which can be frustrating for the driver.  However, there were many vista points and other places to pull over.  Deb took this shot from our car as we approached the more challenging part of the drive.

 Highway 1 vista pullout, looking north.  Note the large bridge at the end of the 2nd bay.  It was one of many.

 We hiked at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, climbing a mountain (Buzzards Roost) for
an ocean view in one direction, and dry mountains in the other.  This is one of many
redwood groves in the park, with trees soaring over 200'.

 In California the desert is never far from the ocean.  This little guy greeted us at the top of our lookout.

 Our view of the Pacific Ocean from Buzzards Roost.  The ocean is often the same colour as the sky.  Looking west, the sky was overcast.  However, the next photo shows the view looking east at exactly the same time.

 Looking east from Buzzards Roost into the Santa Lucia Range, essentially the same mountains seen in the first photo on this page, above.

 My closeup with a redwood tree.

 Back on Highway 1, looking south.

 Same bridge as in photo, above, but not the same one as seen in the background of an earlier photo.  There were several beautiful bridges like this, most built in the 1930s.

 Lights of north Monterey, from Cannery Row.  We ate dinner at Cannery Row Brewery (more on the final page).

To be continued....

Amtrak to California, Part 2: M*A*S*H Hike

California, Day One (9 Photos)

We were able to rent a car right from the downtown LA Amtrak station, this time a white Ford Focus.  We were soon on our way north, driving through totally insane traffic.  The traffic was so bad that I swear I will never drive willingly in L.A. on a weekday ever again.  We got out of town okay, but just barely, and only after some nail-biting delays.  In-bound traffic was at a standstill for miles and miles as we continued north.  Our first stop was to be Malibu Creek State Park, where the non-studio scenes from M*A*S*H were filmed.  It is close to L.A., but it still took awhile to get there due to heavy traffic.

 Deb signed up for a tour of duty with the 4077!  It was an easy back country hike to the scene of the famous tv series.  There were interpretive signs everywhere detailing the camp layout.  A shaded picnic area sits atop the original mess tent location.  A few old vehicles are still lying around.  We stayed for a while, including a visit to the helicopter pad.

 Besides the fun of seeing the location of M*A*S*H (there was a cast reunion here in 2008), the mountain scenery was quite fabulous.  However, it was very warm (mid to high 80s) and unshaded much of the way.

 After hiking, we drove north to Morro Bay, where our first night's motel was located.  We backtracked to San Luis Obispo for dinner, which had a lovely downtown and several restaurants.  Woodstock Pizza offered vegan cheese and several microbrew taps.  There was enough pizza left over to bring back for tomorrow.

 Next morning we got acquainted with Morro Bay and Morro Rock.  The rock is enormous, and we could see it from our nearby motel room.  It rises nearly 600' (note the vehicles parked in front).  The bay was filled with seabirds, including pelicans diving for fish.  There were also seals and otters.  This side of the rock is a sheltered harbour.  On the right side is a more violent ocean, and even early in the morning there were quite a few surfers.

View of the town of Morro Bay, from the area of Morro Rock.  The town and rock are linked by a bike path and a separate pedestrian path, as well as a road.  The town is quite adorable, and we both left it with reluctance.

Far side of Morro Rock.  Surf was up!

Later that day we drove Highway 1 up the coast as far as Monterey.  At one vista point a group of elephant seals were resting on a beach.

Telephoto shot of resting seals.  The white on their noses is from salt crusting.

Another shot of the coast.  We walked a short trail here, enjoying the sounds and the sights, all quite new for us.  Normally, we are desert dwellers.

To Be Continued....

Amtrak To California, Part 1: The Journey Westbound

Page One: Westbound (9 Photos--Sept. 2014)

           Our 2nd Amtrak adventure in less than a year occurred between Sept. 1st and Sept. 9th, 2014.  The journey began the same as the previous one, with a very early wake up and drive to Dearborn Station in Detroit, where we caught the Wolverine service to Chicago.  The Southwest Chief begins in Chicago and travels to 32 stations before arriving in Los Angeles.  We had gone as far as Albuquerque in April, but were now heading all the way to the west coast.  Because of on-going track upgrades between Dearborn and Chicago, our local train left extra early.  We were up at 4 am and out the door by 4:45 am.  Though very early in the morning, one can never predict circumstances at the Detroit border crossing.  However, we got across smoothly and we soon parked at the station with time to spare.
           
            Our train arrived and departed on time, and we arrived in Chicago before 11 am.  It was Labor Day, a major holiday, but our destination brew pub was open!  Our first stop after checking our baggage was Haymarket Brewpub, and it was a humdinger!  We now have one of the most amazing beer menus ever experienced available to us, right in downtown Chicago and an easy walk from Union Station (for more detailed info on our pub visit, see the final page of this series).  The day had dawned foggy and dark, and it was raining pretty hard as we dashed through the streets towards our lunch destination.  However, by the time we left the pub it was sunny!  Returning to the station we came across Marianos Market, an upscale, large fresh market.  We added a few things to our snack item list for the two-day train ride, including four single serving bottles of California wine.

            Back at the station we retrieved our luggage from the first class lounge (one suitcase was checked through on the baggage car already) and waited to board.  Our scheduled departure was 3 pm.  By 2:45 pm we were snug in our tiny roomette, where we would spend much of the next 42 hours.  However, by 3:15 pm we hadn't moved.  About 3:30 an announcement was made: we were awaiting a crew member.  No doubt it was a substitution for someone who did not show up, or who called in sick at the last minute.  At any rate, we pulled out of Chicago Union Station at exactly 4 pm, as excited as two kids on their birthdays!

We had approximately three hours for our early afternoon Chicago adventure, before boarding the Southwest Chief for L.A.  We spent much of the time at Haymarket Brewpub, a new favourite.  Deb is not able to partake other than a small taste.  We tried 7 different ales!

Sunset, Galesburg, IL.  We are very close to crossing the Mississippi River at this point.

 Fresh air stop next morning in La Junta, CO.  We had time to walk the length of the train a few times while there was a change of crew.  The boarding area had just been repaved.  The standard train consists of two diesel engines (#79 and #157), a baggage car, three sleepers, dining car, observation car and lounge, and three coaches.  It's a long walk to the back of the train.  When the conductor shouts "All Aboard!" you have less than a minute to get back on the train.

 Observation car view of Fisher Peak (9633') leaving Trinidad, CO.  The train slowly climbs a high pass through the mountains, into a long tunnel at the top, and then down the other side into New Mexico.

 The high, hazy peak in the background is Little Costilla Peak.  It is over 40 miles
away, as viewed from our train.  Several summers ago, Deb, Amanda L. and I
climbed the peak as the climax to a week of hiking and camping in NM.  The
white mountains in front of it are the Ash Mtns, a separate range.

There are five station stops in NM on the Chief.  Las Vegas is #2 if westbound.  Stops are typically two to five minutes, and only passengers terminating their journeys are allowed to get off.

 Forest fire in the Jemez Range, NW of Albuquerque, from the observation car.

 A happy Amtrak traveller.  In Albuquerque there is a lengthy stopover for a crew
change and refuelling.  I wandered away from the station in search of craft beer.
I found a small Chama River taproom nearby and returned with a mini-growler
(32 oz) of fabulous IPA (more on final page).

Though window glare from the observation car hampers the scene, one still gets a pretty good idea of what NM skies are like.  We are now west of Albuquerque.

After dinner we stayed in our car, watching twilight fall, and then darkness.  The sky was pristine, and we were able to pick out many northern constellations, even through our tinted windows.  We slept through most of Arizona and California, awakening next morning not far from L.A.  We had time for a quick wash up, some breakfast, and then we were in downtown L.A., about to see that city and the Pacific Ocean for the first time.

To be continued...

NM #34--Amtrak to Albuquerque, Part 7: The Pubs!

PAGE SEVEN:  PUBS AND BREWPUBS (For Jennifer) (10 Photos)

          The world of beer in America has changed so dramatically in the last ten years that a decent craft ale is available in almost any pub, even in a dive bar.  If it's not on tap, there is usually a bottle of the stuff lying around waiting to be opened by someone who appreciates it.  There are dozens of beer styles now, most worth drinking, and they are as different from one another as can be.  No one can truly say any more that they "don't like beer."  It's like saying you don't like food.  Sample trays are the best way to become initiated, and to find the beer that best suits your taste.  There are some really strong tasting ones, and there are some really mild tasting ones, and everything in between.  Craft brewers add things like dark chocolate and coffee to beer, as well as herbs, spices, ginger and just about everything else, including hops and malts.  It is so much fun visiting a new brewery, because one never knows what awaits.  And of course it is even more fun returning to a favourite brewery to have that one beer that makes the whole journey special.  Even Amtrak is on board with craft beer!  Here is the beer adventure portion of our trip, in chronological order.  Not all pubs have photos.  Sorry, but I get too focused on the beer and sometimes forget to take photos.

JUNCTION BAR, Chicago:  (link to their FB page) Located in Union Station, Chicago, and it was open Easter Sunday!  Lots of craft beer on draft and in bottles.  Deb was off her meds and her liver had gone back to normal.  She was able to enjoy alcohol on this journey!  For her first beer since her prohibition she chose well--Bells Two-Hearted Ale.  I had a Deschutes "Chainbreaker White IPA," which was the special of the day.  Delicious!  We split a second pint of it.  A good place to hang out between trains, though we found a more interesting pub outside the station and down the street (see last entry on this page).  No food here at the station pub, but you can bring food back from the food court to eat at the tables (which is what we did).

This is the upstairs observation lounge on the Southwest Chief.  There are tables at the back to 
eat, play cards, or keep the kids busy.  Downstairs is the snack car, where food and beverages purchased there can be consumed up here.  As we left Santa Fe (Lamy Station) heading south for our final stop in Albuquerque we bought two bottles of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, enjoying good beer and great views!  Bring your own beer?  It can be consumed in your sleeper room only.  So we had a wee party in our cabin on the way home (see below)!

MARBLE BREWERY,  ALBUQUERQUE:  Our favourite hangout when in town, we hit here first, after getting our rental car.  The brewery is downtown.  Their IPA is the best there is.  They have food trucks outside, different ones each night.  They open a cask every Friday (we missed out, as we left Friday at noon).  This time we met Crown, a golden labrador retriever with special talents.  I got to pat him!  On his talented head!  Arriving here Monday evening, we found out that Crown would be appearing on David Letterman the following Tuesday, on the segment "Stupid Pet Tricks."  Sure enough, after staying up way too late to see him, Crown appeared on the New York based tv show and did his #1 trick, balancing a full beer glass on his head.  Well done, Crown!  Hope we meet up again!  There is a picture of Crown in the pub at the very bottom of Page One.

Another great dive bar of New Mexico, Los Ojos sits in downtown Jemez Springs.  We popped in here after Hike #1, not expecting much.  It was very dark inside (almost a necessity as it is so bright outside in the southwest), and found that it had a great bar, along with tables and chairs and some wonderful booths.  A tiny stage could probably have held three saloon dancers at any one time, or perhaps a fiddler or two.  Not only was there a decent selection of craft beer on tap,
but they had vegan green chile!!  Double score!!  We both tried O'Dell's, Deb with Elephant IPA and me with their Brown Ale.  Very unpretentious place, and not scary at all.  Beer was pretty good, too.

LA CUMBRE BREWING CO., Albuquerque:  Our first of two new (for us) brewpubs in Albuquerque.  Again there was no food, but a food truck was parked outside and serving out Italian food.  We did not come for the food.  The place was packed, and we were hard put to find a table.  We snagged a hi-top with chairs by chance, as we were standing near it when the people left.  And the place had table service!  We tried 6 beer (see below) and took home a bottle of a 7th.

 Beer board at La Cumbre.  Compare with our samples, below.

We shared a sample of six.  Kaylynn's Last Stand (front, light ale), Pogue Mahone (front, dark),
Kettle Bell, Elevated IPA (top), Malpais Stout (back right), Father Nelson (far left).  Favourites
were Elevated IPA, Malpais Stout, and Father Nelson.  We drank in order of increasing alcohol.

We left with a 22oz bottle of this Russian Stout, which would become
 part of our afternoon train party.  How is that for a bottle label?

Indoors and outdoors at Kelly's Brewpub.  It is located in Nob Hill, the funkiest area in Albuquerque.  Tractor Brewing is right around the corner (see below).  For another photo looking back from across the street, go to Page 3, very bottom.

TRACTOR BREWING CO., Albuquerque: (getplowed.com).  Our second new brewpub.  It focusses on beer, but there are food trucks parked outside.  One had vegan Korean food, but we gave it a miss as we weren't hungry.  However, we were thirsty (after Hike #3, and the ride back down the Sandia Tram).

 Tractor Brewing Company, another new one for us.  I had a pint of their
Oatmeal Stout and Deb had Farmer's Almanac IPA.  Hers was better.
There was a big red tractor parked out front, and a two-window shelf
collection of miniature tractors inside.  The place was jammed, and
we had to wait to get seats at the bar.

 Sandia Peak.  One pint goes a long way at over 10,000'.  Deb's had Kona Nut Brown, from the brewery in Maui!  We were scheduled to visit this pub on our Hawaai trip, which got abruptly cancelled last spring when Deb first became ill.  I had Alchemy Pale Ale, which I thoroughly enjoyed.  The bar has incredible views, especially at night.  Food is expensive and not very good.  Have a craft beer or glass of wine instead.  Even the hummous is bad!

 Got this at Wal-Greens for $6.75.  Score!  22 oz each!  We had the Hazelnut Dark in
our hotel room, along with some Jim Beam dark.  Good times!  The Hazelnut
was very, very nutty.  The etched glass made it home and is now a flower vase!

Southwest Chief In-Room Party:  We departed Albuquerque for Chicago at 12:15 on Friday, on time.  The tracks go right past Marble Brewing Co.  We had two cold cans of their IPA with us, and as the train pulled out of the station we popped them open!  We toasted Marble itself about a minute later (photo, P. 6, top right).  Afterwards, we enjoyed the Gnarly Oak Winter Bock, and then the Chocolate Stout (wrapped in newspaper to keep them nicely chilled, and both quite fabulous).  Then we opened the bottle of La Cumbre Russian Imperial Stout (all during a long, lazy afternoon).  Heaven is a luxury train journey with good ale!  Lastly, we enjoyed our unimited supply of free Amtrak coffee with some of our Jim Beam Dark poured in.  It was the smallest room imaginable to hold a party, but it was memorable and loads of fun!

ELEPHANT AND CASTLE, Chicago:  Part of a chain, but a pretty good atmosphere and very reminiscent of some London pubs.  Full range of Fullers, and a few from Meantime.  No cask ales.  Short walk from Union Station in one direction, and the Art Institute in the other.  No beer listings on their website, but they have a lot.  I had Resolution Anti-Hero IPA (average, quite good), and Deb changed gears with a glass of Merlot.  Excellent order of hummous.  We walked here while waiting for our 6 pm train back to Detroit.

THE END